Sonntag, 18. Dezember 2011

Retrospective: Givenchy Haute Couture 'Eclect Dissect', F/W 1997/1998, by Alexander McQueen

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'Eclect Dissect' was McQueen`s second collection for Givenchy.

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It was shown in Paris Medical School in july 1997.

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For this show McQueen`s art director Simon Costin imagined a fictional surgeon and collector who travelled the world collecting exotic objects and women, whom he took apart and reassembled in this laboratory.

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The runway show staged the return of these murdered women who come back to haunt the living.

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The models embodied their ghosts, dressed in the exotic garments collected by their murderer on his foreign journeys.

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Scottish tartan, Spanish lace, kimonos, Burmese necklaces and eastern folk dresses decorated with feathers and stuffed animals merge to outfits with a morbid aura.

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The analogy between the designer and the surgeon is obvious.

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McQueen acts like a surgeon himself here, dissecting the traditional clothes and reassembling them.

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The japanese Obi, for example, becomes a corset and the Kimono becomes a tight skirt.

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McQueen`s reassemblage didn`t make the women seem like victims but as vengeful ghosts.

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He always wanted to empower women with his fashion and I think he succeeds with this collection.

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The mix of cultures is extended beyond fashion; the show also makes references to his own, british, culture (in the 19th century): the dissecting-reference to Jack the Ripper (who also influenced his graduation collection) and the 'women returning from the dead' motif from the Gothic Novel.

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Picture credit: Pogisto, © All rights reserved
Information credit: Book: 'Fashion at the edge: spectacle, modernity and deathliness' by Caroline Evans. Pages 154 - 156.


I LOVE this collection! It`s like an "early version" of 'Widows of Culloden' with an additional exotic touch. Not only is the tartan the same as in McQueen`s fall 2006 collection, the opening music of Givenchy was also played in his show!
McQueen is the only designer EVER to mix elements of Scotland, Spain and Asia - and it works! I love how the models act like victorian ladies, the Princess Leah hair and the Burka with the bird-cage on top! McQueen`s fantasy and courage to put traditional items into new contexts and mix cultures & times will be unrivalled for 100 years at least.





What is your favourite thing about this collection?

7 Kommentare:

Susu Paris Chic hat gesagt…

I relate to the Scandinavian fairy-like designs, with two enormous dishes on the top of ears.

I predict Scandinavian model era starting. After the Brazilians and Eastern Europeans and Russians, now maybe the snow princesses will take the stage;)

Madeleine Roberts hat gesagt…

Amazing post. I love the tartan pieces.
I always enjoy reading your retrospective posts. I love all the thought you put in them.
-Madeleine

Miriam Rodriguez Perez hat gesagt…

AMAZING!!!!!
Wonderful blog!!! it gives to me a lot ideas for my own show´s projects!!
I´m following you!!
My homework is done!!!

This is my blog:
http://muchoabrigoypocasnueces.blogspot.com

Nice to meet you!!
xx
MíriamR.P.

Fashion Abecedaire hat gesagt…

Found this post by chance through the Links à la Mode group - great analysis of the collection. No matter how good Sarah Burton is, I miss Alexander McQueen.

Heather Fonseca hat gesagt…

Fabulous never goes out of style does it? What a wonderful collection. So many wearable pieces within the drama and theater too!

reub-envision hat gesagt…

intense !

White List hat gesagt…

Fantastic Retrospective! Love Alexander McQueen designs. For Givenchy or his own brands!

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